1. ABSCESS If a guinea pig gets a scratch, a bite or anything else that becomes infected, his body will fight off the infection and the result will be a large growth full of dead cells also known as a "puss pocket." An appointment with the vet will get it lanced, drained and a regime of antibiotics will make your piggie good as new.
2. CYSTS Cysts are fluid filled pockets that form lumps in the tissues or organs. It only becomes a threat when it grows large enough to disturb the function of the tissue or organ. In any case, when you start to feel lumps growing anywhere on your pig, it would be a good idea to take it to the vet.
3. EYE INJURY/INFECTION Eye infection, also known as conjunctivitis, can be caused from bacterial spread of a dirty, wet cage or possibly a puncture to the eye from using straw as bedding. TREATMENT: If the eye is crusted closed do not force it opened as you could cause further injury. Use a warm, wet washcloth to soak it open and wash all the crust away. You will need to put an antibiotic ointment (or drops) in the eye. You can most likely pick up Terramycin at a feed supply store.
4. IMPACTION Guinea pigs eat feces because it gives them microflora and B vitamins. When they are ready to retrieve it, they will "hunch" down and grab straight from the sac. Microflora is a bacterium that helps aide in the digestion process and also with immunities (as it is thought to contain B vitamins). It has been suggested that since he drags his bottom to leave a scent trail or to mark territory that this weakens the anal muscles or stretches them out causing feces to lodge in the anal sac. Neutered males and sows do not mark territory or drag their bottoms, so this condition is less likely to affect them. It is quite common in elderly boars and once it starts, very rarely corrects itself. However, having him neutered after this condition occurs will keep the problem to a minimum or eliminate it altogether, because the vet can tighten up the anal wall. Changing his diet and giving him plenty of exercise will help also. Feed him a lot more timothy hay and cut out the carbohydrates such as carrots, peas and asparagus. One of the symptoms to look for would be little or no appetite and little or no movement. You would then need to feel of the sac for hardness. If you have never removed an impaction before, or this is the first time for him, then it would be advisable to have someone stand by to help just in case. It may be as easy as pulling the sac back to reveal the impaction and simply expelling it, or if it is very hard, this is where you will need help. The first thing to do would be to gather the supplies you will need: ¼ cup olive oil (dixie cup will work best), cotton swabs (you can start with about 10, then next time you will have an idea) immersed in the oil, small plastic bag, towel and a helper. Spread the towel on a flat surface and have someone hold him on his back while you push the anal sac open over the hard mass. Use the cotton swabs to ever so gently remove the impaction, and then discard into the plastic bag. Use extreme caution not to hurt him because this area is extremely sensitive. If the fecal matter proves to be extra hard and difficult to get out, you can pour some olive oil directly onto the mass and gently work it down around the sides to ease it out. This sounds gross, but if he is not allowed to eat this, then he is not getting the valuable microflora and B vitamins obtained to sustain his health. Be careful so he is not eating the cotton.
5. SCRATCHING AND FUR LOSS Scratching in your guinea pig is as common as in humans; however, excessive scratching indicates there is a problem. Upon further inspection, if you should notice hair loss, red spots (as in a rash), dandruff or tiny bugs, then you have mite or lice trouble. Mites and lice are common parasites among guinea pigs just like in birds and cats. If this is not taken care of right away then you could have a major infestation. Although dog flea shampoo will treat some of these, you must also change the bedding, sanitize the cage and treat all cage mates as a part of treatment or you risk re-infestation. Cavy lice are species specific, meaning that they only cling to guinea pigs. I. Cavy Lice:Lice are a yellowish/white bug that you can see running along the back if you thumb his coat in the opposite direction. They lay eggs at the base of the hair shaft usually around the rump. You need to bathe your pig in cat flea shampoo with pyrethrin every 7 days for three to four weeks. The new course of treatment preferred now is the Advantage flea and tick control for dogs and cats. It can be found in the pet department of your local department store. It is said to kill the lice on contact and control re-infestation for up to thirty days, eliminating the need for re-treatment and cleaning. Some flea and tick treatments can be deadly to your guinea pig so do not try just anything available. Research it first, or ask the manufacturer. II. Mange (sellnick mite):This is a type of sarcoptic mite that burrows just under the skin to lay their eggs and to feed. They are microscopic but you can see its trail of destruction. It causes thinning hair or patchy bald spots (moth eaten look) scurfing (white or yellow crust on the skin that looks like thick dandruff) and open sores from extreme scratching. In advanced stages, it is so painful that the guinea pig goes into "seizures." It can be confirmed through a skin scraping from a vet and treated with several shots of ivermectin over several weeks' time, or your vet may give you lime sulfer dip. Any type of shampoo will not help. The stress brought on by the intense itching and the secondary bacterial infections caused by wounds opened by scratching can be fatal, making this type of mite life threatening if left untreated. III. Fur Mites (also called static lice):This type of mite is very hard to see but crawls around underneath the dandruff that it creates, thus, it is known as walking dandruff. When it eats, it excretes digestive enzymes to dissolve the skin and after handling your pig, you feel the itchy, burning sensation of the residue that has been left, although the mite itself cannot be transferred to humans. Some people falsely jump to the conclusion they are allergic to their pig because of the itching and redness that it creates on the human skin. The eggs can be seen if you thumb his fur the wrong way especially at the base of the spine. Some symptoms include itching, scabs or crusts of skin, and large amounts of dandruff. Washing in cat flea shampoo every seven days for two to three weeks will eliminate the problem. You must also wash and sanitize his cage each time because this mite can live away from its host for up to three days and you risk re-infection. IV. Ear Mites:This mite is not species specific and is large enough to be seen moving around in the wax of the ears. If you see him scratching and shaking his head, then ear mites are present. They can cause irritation and inflammation, which can lead to bacterial infection if not treated. You can take him in to your vet for an Ivermectin shot, or you can buy the Advantage Dog Ear Mite Treatment. Simply squeeze a small amount on a Q-tip and clean the ear out with it. Be very careful and mind what you are doing or you can cause injury to your pig. V. Ringworm: This is a type of fungus that looks like sore spots with crusts over top of it, (sort of like a cut with a scab). If you find a pig with ringworm, isolate immediately because it is highly contagious and can release spores into the environment. Bathe your pig in Selsun Blue or Miconazole shampoo, and then apply antifungal cream such as clotrimazole on the infected spots. You would need to apply the antifungal cream twice every day, while bathing every week. Clean the cage thoroughly by soaking everything that was in the cage and washing the cage thoroughly with bleach water. You will need to treat all pigs who share a habitat. However, if you own more than 10 pigs, there is an easier way of dealing with it. There is a product on the market that kills fleas/ticks in dogs/cats and has been known to kill ringworm in pigs. It is called Program and the active ingredient is Lufenuron. This product is color coded to match the weight of the dog/cat. The most effective dose to use would be the red, or the 11 to 20 pounds. Most times, one treatment is all you will need because results are immediate. You will need an oral syringe and some cooking oil. It is supposed to be given in a high-fat suspension, so what you will need to do is crush the tablet between two spoons, pour the oil onto it and mix well, then suck it up into the syringe and administer. Lufenuron will not hurt pregnant pigs. AN OUNCE OF PREVENTION IS WORTH A POUND OF CURE: Simply go to the pet care isle of your local department store, buy the small tube of ear mite treatment for dogs and squeeze one drop of it behind your guinea pigs' ear once a month. This will take care of fleas, ticks, mites and lice. However it is not effective against ringworm.
6. BREAKING TEETH If your pig should happen to fall and break a front tooth, it will grow back in two to three weeks without any problem. However, should he break both front teeth, you may need to cut up his food and push it into his mouth passed the front incisors, (depending on the extent of the damage), because he cannot grasp the food himself.
7. WOUNDS An open wound could be caused from just about anything. Wash the wound then clip the hair so you can see it better. Clean it good with peroxide and a cotton ball then put on betadine ointment. Apply it twice a day to prevent bacterial infection.