SECTION 2
NEEDS YOUR ATTENTION
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ABSCESS
If a guinea pig gets a scratch, a bite or anything else that becomes infected,
his body will fight off the infection and the result will be a large growth full
of dead cells also known as a "puss pocket." An appointment with the vet
will get it lanced, drained and a regime of antibiotics will make your piggie
good as new.
CYSTS
Cysts are fluid filled pockets that form lumps in the tissues or organs. It
only becomes a threat when it grows large enough to disturb the function of
the tissue or organ. In any case, when you start to feel lumps growing
anywhere on your pig, it would be a good idea to take it to the vet.
EYE INJURY/INFECTION
Eye infection, also known as conjunctivitis, can be caused from bacterial
spread of a dirty, wet cage or possibly a puncture to the eye from using
straw as bedding.
TREATMENT: If the eye is crusted closed do not force it opened as you
could cause further injury. Use a warm, wet washcloth to soak it open and
wash all the crust away. You will need to put an antibiotic ointment (or
drops) in the eye. You can most likely pick up Terramycin at a feed supply
store.
IMPACTION
Guinea pigs eat feces because it gives them microflora and B vitamins.
When they are ready to retrieve it, they will "hunch" down and grab straight
from the sac. Microflora is a bacterium that helps aide in the digestion
process and also with immunities (as it is thought to contain B vitamins).
It has been suggested that since he drags his bottom to leave a scent trail or
to mark territory that this weakens the anal muscles or stretches them out
causing feces to lodge in the anal sac. Neutered males and sows do not mark
territory or drag their bottoms, so this condition is less likely to affect them.
It is quite common in elderly boars and once it starts, very rarely corrects
itself. However, having him neutered after this condition occurs will keep
the problem to a minimal or eliminate it altogether because the vet can
tighten up the anal wall. Changing his diet and giving him plenty of
exercise will help also. Feed him a lot more timothy hay and cut out the
carbohydrates such as carrots, peas and asparagus.
One of the symptoms to look for would be little or no appetite and little or
no movement. You would then need to feel of the sac for hardness. If you
have never removed an impaction before, or this is the first time for him,
then it would be advisable to have someone stand by to help just in case. It
may be as easy as pulling the sac back to reveal the impaction and simply
expelling it, or if it is very hard, this is where you will need help. The first
thing to do would be to gather the supplies you will need: ¼ cup olive oil
(dixie cup will work best), cotton swabs (you can start with about 10, then
next time you will have an idea) immersed in the oil, small plastic bag,
towel and a helper.
Spread the towel on a flat surface and have someone hold him on his back
while you push the anal sac open over the hard mass. Use the cotton swabs
to ever so gently remove the impaction, and then discard into the plastic
bag. Use extreme caution not to hurt him because this area is extremely
sensitive. If the fecal matter proves to be extra hard and difficult to get out,
you can pour some olive oil directly onto the mass and gently work it down
around the sides to ease it out. This sounds gross, but if he is not allowed to
eat this, then he is not getting the valuable microflora and B vitamins
obtained to sustain his health. Be careful so he is not eating the cotton.
SCRATCHING AND FUR LOSS
Scratching in your guinea pig is as common as in humans; however,
excessive scratching indicates there is a problem. Upon further inspection,
if you should notice hair loss, red spots (as in a rash), dandruff or tiny bugs,
then you have mite or lice trouble. Mites and lice are common parasites
among guinea pigs just like in birds and cats. If this is not taken care of
right away then you could have a major infestation. Although cat flea
shampoo will treat some of these, you must also change the bedding, sanitize
the cage and treat all cage mates as a part of treatment or you risk
re-infestation. Cavy lice are species specific, meaning that they only cling
to guinea pigs.
I. Cavy Lice: Lice are a yellowish/white bug that you can see running
along the back if you thumb his coat in the opposite direction. They lay
eggs at the base of the hair shaft usually around the rump. You need to bathe
your pig in cat flea shampoo with pyrethrin every 7 days for three to four
weeks. The new course of treatment preferred now is the Advantage flea and
tick control for dogs and cats. It can be found in the pet department of your
local department store. It is said to kill the lice on contact and control
re-infestation for up to thirty days, eliminating the need for re-treatment and
cleaning. Some flea and tick treatments can be deadly to your guinea pig so
do not try just anything available. Research it first, or ask the manufacturer.
II. Mange (Sellnick) Mites: This type of mite burrows just under the
skin to lay their eggs and to feed. They are microscopic but you can see its
trail of destruction. It causes thinning hair or patchy bald spots (moth eaten
look) scurfing (white or yellow crust on the skin that looks like thick
dandruff) and open sores from extreme scratching. In advanced stages, it is
so painful that the guinea pig goes into "seizures." It can be confirmed
through a skin scraping from a vet and treated with several shots of
ivermectin over several weeks' time, so any type of shampoo will not help.
This type of mite is life threatening if left untreated.
III. Fur Mites (Static Lice): This type of mite is very hard to see but
crawls around underneath the dandruff that it creates, thus, becoming known
as walking dandruff. When it eats, it excretes digestive enzymes to dissolve
the skin and after handling your pig, you feel the itchy, burning sensation of
the residue that has been left, although the mite itself cannot be transferred
to humans. Some people falsely jump to the conclusion they are allergic to
their pig because of this.
The eggs can be seen if you thumb his fur the wrong way especially at the
base of the spine. Some symptoms include itching, scabs or crusts of skin,
and large amounts of dandruff. Washing in cat flea shampoo every seven
days for two to three weeks will eliminate the problem.
You must also wash and sanitize his cage each time because this mite can
live away from its host for up to three days and you risk re-infection.
IV. Ear Mites: This mite is not species specific and is large enough to
be seen moving around in the wax of the ears. If you see him scratching and
shaking his head, have a look in the ears. If the wax has a dark reddish
appearance and movement can be seen, then ear mites are present. They can
cause irritation and inflammation, which can lead to bacterial infection if
not treated. You can take him in to your vet for an Ivermectin shot, or you
can buy the Advantage Dog Ear Mite Treatment. Simply squeeze a small
amount on a Q-tip and clean the ear out with it. Be very careful and mind
what you are doing or you can cause injury to your pig.
V. Ringworm: This is a type of fungus that looks like sore spots with
crusts over top of it, (sort of like a cut with a scab). If you find a pig with
ringworm, isolate immediately because it is highly contagious and can
release spores into the environment. Bathe your pig in Selsun Blue or
Miconazole shampoo, and then apply antifungal cream such as clotrimazole
on the infected spots. You would need to apply the antifungal cream twice
every day, while bathing every week. Clean the cage thoroughly by soaking
everything that was in the cage and washing the cage thoroughly with bleach
water. You will need to treat all pigs who share a habitat. However, if you
own more than 10 pigs, there is an easier way of dealing with it. There is a
product on the market that kills fleas/ticks in dogs/cats and has been known
to kill ringworm in pigs. It is called Program and the active ingredient is
Lufenuron. This product is color coded to match the weight of the dog/cat.
The most effective dose to use would be the red, or the 11 to 20 pounds.
Most times, one treatment is all you will need because results are
immediate. You will need an oral syringe and some cooking oil. It is
supposed to be given in a high-fat suspension, so what you will need to do is
crush the tablet between two spoons, pour the oil onto it and mix well, then
suck it up into the syringe and administer. Lufenuron will not hurt pregnant
pigs.
BREAKING TEETH
If your pig should happen to fall and break a front tooth, it will grow back
in two to three weeks without any problem. However, should he break both
front teeth, you may need to cut up his food and push it into his mouth
passed the front incisors, (depending on the extent of the damage), because
he cannot grasp the food himself.
WOUNDS
An open wound could be caused from just about anything. Wash the
wound then clip the hair so you can see it better. Clean it good with
peroxide and a cotton ball then put on betadine ointment. Apply it twice a
day to prevent bacterial infection.